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Having an excessive number of banned accounts in a very short timeframe. Running a web bot/spider that downloaded a very large number of pages - more than could possibly justified as "personal use". Automated spam (advertising) or intrustion attempts (hacking). Waste a lot of wood and you waste a lot of time.Your current IP address has been blocked due to bad behavior, which generally means one of the following: The time making the wood you use to feed the fire is also part of the equation of the time it takes to evaporate sap. Yes, roaring the fire will mean more heat transfer usually, but at what cost? If 50% of the increase of roar is simply heading up the stack, that's quite a cost for a modest increase in the transfer of heat. What I've been commenting on is the focus on increasing the roar of the fire rather than a focus on increasing heat transfer to the pans. If it's simply heading out the stack, and a stack temp of 1200 to 1400 is an indication of that, then the heat is wasted. Increasing the rate of the fire does not in itself increase the rate of heat transfer to the sap efficiently. Anything that increases transfer of heat into the pans increases the efficiency of the boil. One price of too much air movement in the arch is that much heat is carried away from the pans and straight up the arch. Heat going up the stack is not getting into the sap. The point is to get the heat into the sap. Oh yeh - and some guys are measuring stack surface temp, with a hang on sensor, not an internal probe style. Your mileage will almost certainly differ. You should be able to get a guide as to when your rig boils well and when to fire. When the numbers are unreliable you can learn NOTHING compared to the next guy. So if one member says he runs at 1100 and another says he runs at 1300, they could actually be running at the same temp or maybe even a wider spread. This is a grand sample of one, so I have no idea if the numbers from the dial types have much variatioin, but it sure makes them suspect. There was always about 100 degrees difference between them, sometimes at higher temps the dial type would be pointing to 1150 and the digital would say 850. I put one in the stack on the opposite side to my trusty $ 19.95 dial type that most of us use with the two stems inside the stack and only a coupl inches appart at the same level. The plan was to put one in the stackand one in the firebox. You have to find the sweet spot for your rig and your expectationsĪ few months ago I got a Bartlet digital pyrometer. So it is a balance between production rate and efficiency. 
Remember when you see temperatures listed here that a magnetic surface thermometer will read much lower than than a probe thermometer that is actually measuring the flue gases. Fun for a short while but not sustainable or economical. I'm pretty confident we were getting 55 to 60GPH out of our 2圆, stack temps (probe) were 1900☏ an we were burning wood at an unreasonable rate. Late one evening we decided to max our rate and opened up AOF, AUF and fired every 4 minutes or so. Lost heat is the product of stack flow rate and stack temp.Ī real efficient rig would have very low stack temps, but the back of the pan would not be boiling hard and that often bothers the operator so they throw more AUF flow or more fuel on. Higher stack temps can result in higher evaporation rates, but are also an indication of low fuel efficiency.that is waste heat going up the stack.
I agree it is a good measure of consistency.
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